I always thought I knew how to paint stripes.
I always thought that my days as a stripe painting rock star were around the corner if I just applied myself.
I also thought I could be the hula hoop champion of fourth grade….and then I lost in the final round when we were supposed to double hula hoop and then one of the hoops oddly got caught on my charm bracelet and fell to the ground….
….along with my dreams of hula hoop stardom on the Electric Company.
A hula hooping championship was out of my reach…but painting stripes….how hard could it be?
But every time I went to paint….the wall would just stare at me and I would get all intimidated and I would have visions of wiggles and bumps and completely not straight stripes.
And then I started decorating a gatehouse….on a budget….that had a kitchen with a wall that didn’t stare at me anymore.
It spoke to me.
About gray and white stripes.
And manners written in orange letters.
So I read this post from one of my favorite bloggers….
….and took the plunge.
And just in case you have a wall that’s calling for stripes….here’s what I learned along the way.
Here’s my top five tips for painting stripes.
Read this before starting any stripe project.
Pin it or write it down so you remember because this tip will make all the difference:
An odd number of stripes is perfect.
To determine the width of my stripes….I measured from ceiling to floor. The room height was 96.25.
Then I used Beth’s tip: for skinny stripes divide by 9….for medium stripes divide by 7….for thicker stripes divide by 9.
I wanted medium stripes so I divided 96.25 by 7 and each stripe was 13.75.
I included the base molding because my bottom stripe and top stripe were both white…..on purpose.
If you want to save taping…make your top stripe and bottom stripe (remember…you have odd numbers) whatever your base color is.
So much less taping.
I used ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape
It has an edge lock protector.
And the edge lock protector works so much better when you take a card (I used my Kroger super saver card) and run it along the edges…..pressing firmly.
That way you can make sure that all the tape is firmly attached to the wall and your stripes will not be wiggly or bumpy or paint splattered.
Tip Number 3: Tape properly
Mark the stripes you are not going to paint. I know this seems elementary….but when you are in the middle of painting….it’s easy to forget.
Also…make sure that you tape the inside of the stripes you are not going to paint.
All the stripes you are painting should be taped on the outside.
Tip number three comes from experience…..and a lot of re-taping. 🙂
Tip Number Four: Pull tape towards wet paint
After you paint the stripes…for the crispest, cleanest stripes….pull the tape right away.
And when you remove the tape…pull it off in the direction of the wet paint.
That way….any drips of wet paint go back onto the stripe.
Tip Number Five: Your paint will look darker next to a lighter color
This is so important.
When picking a paint color for your stripe….go lighter.
For example, I painted the base coat SW Alabaster. When I picked my gray….I went with a really light gray SW Silverplate. I knew that the white paint would make the gray look so much darker.
SW Silverplate on the wall against the white looks so much darker.
Tip number five comes from experience…and a lot of re-painting.
This post was sponsored by The Home Depot and ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape.
All opinions on painting and taping and hula hooping are completely my own.
You can see my complete disclosure policy here.